R. Ohlgren-Evans, from the October 1998 Newsletter

Corn is one of the few grains native to the Western Hemisphere. Native Americans cultivated corn, or maize, long before Europeans ventured west.

Cornmeal is a widely-used staple in corn-growing regions. Many Southerners insist on stone-ground meal, preferably white. The rest of the country settles for the granular yellow stuff (or worse: the de-germed, highly-processed, corn bread mixes). White cornmeal has a somewhat more subtle, delicate flavor. Yellow cornmeal is a bit sweeter and "cornier."

Corn is the only grain that contains vitamin A, with yellow corn containing more than white. Whole corn is also a good source of vitamins B and C, potassium, and fiber. Corn is gluten-free. Unfortunately, corn does suffer some nutritional deficiencies. It is low in tryptophane and lysine, and most of its niacin is molecularly bond in such a way that it is unavailable for our bodies' use, unless it is cooked with slaked lime (calcium hydroxide).

Whole regions and cultures (such as the southern United States, Spain, and Italy) suffered devastating pellagra epidemics before they learned about the problems with corn's niacin. Many native cultures instinctively cooked whole corn with slaked lime, wood ash or lye. All create the caustic alkaline condition needed to release the bound niacin. Today slaked lime is most often used. It has the additional benefit of providing calcium.

It is a good idea to buy organic. Weakened field corn is vulnerable to an aflatoxin produced by a fungus called Aspergillus flavus. This fungus grows best of plants that are weakened by insects, stress, chemical misuse, or drought. Strong plants, grown under healthy soil regenerative organic practices, are the most naturally resistant to this mold.

Stone-ground cornmeal is produced by crushing the corn kernels under millstones. With the germ retained, fresh stone-ground corn has a rich corn flavor. Because of the higher oil and moisture content, one should store whole grain stone-ground cornmeal in an airtight container in the refrigerator or freezer, and use it within three months. (Bring it to room temperature before using it for baking.) Cornmeal can be used in cornbread, corn sticks, muffins, pancakes, and for coating foods in preparation for frying.

De-germinated cornmeal is ground between massive steel rollers. The fiber and corn germs are separated out, leaving a less nutritious and less flavorful grain. Because the germ's oils are removed, degerminated cornmeal has a longer shelf life, making it a common ingredient in processed foods.

Blue cornmeal is made from a variety of blue-black corn that has been cultivated by the Hopi and Navajo Indians for thousands of years. This colorful meal is a bit coarser than yellow or white meal, but is somewhat sweeter and nuttier in flavor. It also contains about 20% more protein, up to 50% more iron, and twice the manganese and potassium than other varieties of corn. But be prepared for a startling culinary experience (when you mix blue cornmeal with water, it turns lavender)! If you are the adventurous sort, you can use blue cornmeal to make purple pancakes, muffins, and cornbread.

Though there are a range of corn quick breads, historian and novelist Shelby Foote once neatly divided and characterized the many recipes into two basic types, the dry and moist. My first recipe fits the moist category. It's a recipe that I've had for so very long that I've forgotten the source. My second recipe, the muffins, fits the dry category. The recipe is adapted from Bette Hagman's Gluten-Free Gourmet. I enjoy the muffins moistened with softened goat cheese and a slightly warmed, flavorful honey. If you like these muffins, you may want to double the recipe next time; they freeze well. Chiles and cheese moisten the third recipe, taken from the April 1997 issue of Fine Cooking Magazine. This bread has a crisp crust from the hot oiled skillet, and a nice crumbly interior.

Creamy Corn Bread
3 eggs
1 cup sour cream
1/3 cup vegetable oil
1 can cream style corn
1/4 t. salt
1 T. baking powder
1 cup yellow cornmeal

Combine the eggs, sour cream, oil, and creamed corn and beat well. Mix together the dry ingredients and stir into the creamy mixture. Turn into a greased and heated nine-inch square pan. Bake at 375 degrees for 30-35 minutes. Serve hot.

Note: This moist bread is especially good served with herbed butter. To make that butter, blend 1/2 cup of softened butter, 1/2 cup of corn, canola, or olive oil, 1/4 cup grated parmesan cheese, 2 T. fresh chopped basil, and a dash of salt. Put the mixture in a serving dish and chill overnight.

Yellow Corn Muffins
1 cup yellow cornmeal
1 cup corn flour -or- 1 cup Gluten Free flour mix*
2 T. sugar (recipe calls for 1/4 cup sugar)
2 t. baking powder
1 t. baking soda
1 t. salt
2 eggs, beaten
1 cup buttermilk
2 T. canola oil (recipe calls for melted shortening)

Sift the dry ingredients together into a mixing bowl. Stir in the beaten eggs, buttermilk, and oil. Pour into greased muffin cups. Bake in a preheated 400 degree oven for about 25 minutes. Makes about 12 muffins.

*Ms. Hagman's gluten free flour mixture is a combination of 2 parts (white) rice flour, 2/3 parts potato starch flour, and 1/3 part tapioca flour. One can mix a larger batch and keep it on hand in an airtight container.

Double-Corn Tex-Mex Cornbread with Cheese & Green Chiles

This is also delicious with sautéed onion or red bell pepper added.

Serves eight.

1 cup (5 oz.) stone-ground yellow cornmeal
1 cup (4 1/2 oz.) unbleached flour
3/4 t. salt
1/4 t. baking soda
1 T. baking powder
1 egg
2 T. sugar
1/4 cup vegetable oil
1 1/4 cups buttermilk
2 T. (1 oz) butter
1 cup grated extra-sharp Cheddar cheese (4 oz.)
Fresh kernels cut from two ears of corn (about 1 1/2 cup)
3 T. finely diced fresh serrano or jalapeno chiles

Heat the oven to 375 degrees. In a bowl, mix the cornmeal, flour, salt, baking soda, and baking powder. In a separate bowl, whisk together the egg, sugar, oil, and buttermilk. Coat a 10-inch cast-iron skillet with oil and set it over medium heat. Add the butter. As the skillet heats, quickly stir together the dry and wet ingredients in a bowl, using just enough strokes to combine. Don't beat or whisk. Stir in the cheese, corn, and chiles.

When the butter has melted and the pan is quite hot, scrape the batter into it; the batter should sizzle as it goes into the pan. Immediately transfer the skillet to the oven. Bake until light brown around the edges, about 25 minutes. Cut in wedges and serve warm.

by R. Ohlgren-Evans

For those of us with some zucchini and basil rescued from the hearty frosts, this salad makes an excellent main dish or side dish - great autumn potluck fare. This recipe makes about eight generous servings.

Zucchini and Basil Pasta Salad
4 medium zucchini very coarsely grated
1 tsp salt
2 1/2 c packed fresh basil leaves
1/2 c olive oil
3 cloves garlic
1/2 tsp fresh oregano or 1/4 tsp dried
6 cups broth or water
3/4 lb orzo (rice-shaped pasta)
1/4 c freshly grated asiago or parmasan
3 Tbs chopped parsley
salt and pepper

Sprinkle zucchini with salt in a colander and toss. Let stand 30 minutes, stirring once or twice. Squeeze zucchini dry. Transfer to large bowl. Blend basil, oil, garlic and oregano together well in food
processor or blender. Add to zucchini; reserve.

Bring broth to a boil in a large pot. Add orzo and reduce heat, cooking until orzo is just tender, about 10-12 minutes. Drain well. Stir the pasta into the zucchini. Add the lemon juice, grated cheese and parsley. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Serve warm, at room temperature, or chilled.

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