| Cabbage Head | |
by Judy Sobeloff, from the March 2006 newsletter
Recently, upon encountering purple cabbage in a salad, I discovered that someone had tampered with the area of my brain responsible for storing information about cabbage. “Beets!” I exclaimed. Later I sought to bolster my knowledge about cabbage, but some confusion remained. Grocery stores, I read, carry three main types: Savoy (wrinkly and green), and two smooth-leaved types, red and green. The phrase “red cabbage,” for me, brought up a memory of working at a café long ago, chopping cabbage and carrots for salad. I could see sunlight pouring in through the window, imbuing everything with a rosy hue, the cabbage center stage glowing a deep ruby red.
CUT! Fast forward to the present, where I try to buy a “red cabbage” and learn that there is no such thing as a cabbage with red leaves, only so-called “red cabbages” with purple leaves. Clearly, someone has been colorizing the movies of my memory.
My friend, Lahde, creator of the aforementioned purple cabbage salad and former Co-op produce manager, had a theory: “Something I noticed working in produce is that people don’t want to call anything ‘purple,’ maybe because purple seems like too much of a woo woo or hippie color.” Good point, I thought, picturing purple-hued “blue” potatoes.
Cabbage, I learned, is one of the world’s most ancient and remarkable vegetables, so I say it’s time we let it be what it is and call it what it is. While Roman mythology tells of how cabbages sprung from the tears of the King of Edonia, a more modern view of cabbage history is that they originated in Asia and were brought by the Celts to Europe around 600 B.C. A staple for many cultures, cabbage is not only inexpensive, but reliable. “Taking only three months growing time, one acre of cabbage will yield more edible vegetables than any other plant,” notes food writer Peggy Trowbridge (www.homecooking.about.com).
Highly nutritious as well (except perhaps for people with thyroid problems), cabbages were deemed by the Roman orator Cato to have more medicinal value than any other vegetable. Historically, cabbage was used by Captain Cook as a compress to prevent gangrene in wounded soldiers, with Cato himself recommending that women bathe in the urine of a frequent cabbage-eater (Clifford A. Wright, Mediterranean Vegetables).
Nowadays, new nursing mothers are advised to line their bra cups with cabbage leaves to reduce discomfort, and cabbage is recommended as a hangover remedy when pickled in vinegar.
“If you think you hate cabbage, as so many people do, try eating it raw,” suggests Mark Bittman in How to Cook Everything. “Many of the nasty things people say about cabbage result from overcooking it.” In other words, those who don’t like the smell could try cabbage in coleslaw or Lahde’s salad below, while those who suffer from cabbage-induced gastric distress could try blanching the cabbage for five minutes and then changing the water. Note, however, that boiling is said to be the least appealing way of preparing cabbage.
I was drawn to the purple/red variety by its color and beauty (due to the the compound anthocyanin, also present in other red/blue/purple vegetables and fruits), but the Savoy cabbage is considered the sweetest and most tender, with the standard green or purple varieties considered tougher and said to work better when shredded or eaten raw.
Fred, who had exclaimed upon tasting Lahde’s Purple Cabbage Salad, “It’s my favorite food ever!,” also responded heartily to Asian Amaranth with Purple Cabbage, a dish that to my surprise was enjoyed by consumers young and old alike. Our 2-year-old liked purple cabbage both raw and cooked, and the 4-year-old, despite initially directing me to “take the purple things out!,” liked the Asian Amaranth with Purple Cabbage as well, saying, “I want a whole jug of it as big as the house!” This dish was extremely easy to make, apart from the question of how to obtain “cooked amaranth.” Though I deemed my own cooked amaranth “glue stew,” none of the recipients seemed to mind, all of them either asking for the recipe or asking for more.
1/4-1/2 cup olive oil
1/4-1/2 cup balsamic or apple cider vinegar
1 Tbsp. honey
1 tsp. mild curry powder
Salt and pepper to taste
1 or more minced garlic cloves
1 purple cabbage, chopped
3 carrots, chopped
Toasted sunflower seeds
Mix the first six ingredients in salad bowl. Add remaining ingredients
and mix.
Asian Aaranth with Purple Cabbage (adapted from www.fooddownunder.com)
1 c. red bell pepper, sliced
1 c. purple cabbage, sliced
1 c. brussel sprouts or chopped asparagus
6 Tbsp. toasted sesame oil
6 Tbsp. tamari
Optional: 4 Tbsp. gomasio (a Japanese seasoning used as a salt substitute)
Salt to taste
4 cups cooked amaranth*
4 Tbsp. fresh chopped parsley
Sauté the first three ingredients in the oil over medium heat for 3 to 5 minutes. Add the remaining ingredients, mix well, and cook an additional 3 to 6 minutes.
*To cook amaranth: Sauté amaranth in olive oil with salt and pepper for up to 3 minutes. Combine with vegetable broth and/or water in a saucepan at a 1:2 grain:liquid ratio. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to a simmer, and cook, covered, for 25 minutes or until the liquid is absorbed.
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