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Chestnuts for the New Year
by Jackie Miyasaka, from the January 2004 newsletter
Happy New Year! The New Year in Japan is a solemn yet joyous holiday spent primarily with family, and it is regarded as an opportunity for a fresh start. The New Year is a three-day celebration that used to take place according to the lunar calendar. However, since the adoption of the Gregorian (solar) calendar by government decree in 1872, it has been celebrated from January 1 through 3. It is considered the most important holiday of the year.
On New Year’s morning and for the first three days of the New Year, people start the day with a ceremonial cup of saké flavored with medicinal herbs and eat osechi-ryori (Japanese New Year’s cuisine). Originally, the term osechi-ryori referred to the meal served at sechie—banquets held by the imperial court during the Heian period (794-1185) to celebrate the transition from one season to the next. The custom of preparing osechi-ryori specifically for New Year’s began when these foods were offered to the toshigami (literally “year god”), the deity believed to pay an annual visit to people’s homes on New Year’s Day. The dishes were to be prepared before the New Year, when the toshigami descended to the mortal world. Since then, the custom of making osechi-ryori in advance evolved as a way to give family cooks a break during the holidays, though it does require a week’s worth of labor-intensive preparation before the holidays. Nowadays, in fact, many families order osechi-ryori from restaurants and supermarkets for delivery on New Year’s morning.
Typically, osechi-ryori contains 20 to 30 items of food elaborately arranged in a three-tiered set of lacquered boxes. The menu varies by region, but common traditional favorites include kuromame (boiled, black soybeans), kazunoko (salted herring roe), and kuri kinton (mashed sweet potatoes with chestnuts). Dishes like namasu (julienne carrot and white radish marinated in sweetened vinegar) lend color to the assortment. Many of the foods carry symbolism appropriate to the New Year. For example, the soybeans represent a prayer for the ability to work hard, while the herring roe represents a wish for many progeny.
The following recipe uses chestnuts and might be found among the many osechi-ryori items.
Simmered Chestnuts with Chicken
1 lb. chestnuts
1/2 lb. boneless chicken
1 can sliced water chestnuts
4 Tbsp. sugar
2 Tbsp. saké (Japanese rice wine)
3 Tbsp. soy sauce
1 Tbsp. vegetable oil
Peel the chestnuts. Cut the chicken into bite sized pieces. Drain the water chestnuts. Heat oil in a pot, and sauté the chestnuts, chicken, and water chestnuts together. Add just enough water to cover the ingredients, and bring to the boil. Add sugar and saké, and simmer over low heat 10 minutes. Add soy sauce, and continue simmering until only one-third of the liquid remains.
If possible, set it aside to cool for an hour or two so that the flavors have a chance to soak in. It can be reheated and served hot, or it can be served after it has cooled, but not cold as in refrigerated. Serve as a side dish with rice.
Jackie Miyasaka works as a Japanese-English translator in Pullman.
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