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Vegan Bites:
Chinese Vegetarian Cooking
by Hope Von Stengal, illustrated by Joseph Von Stengal; from the April 2007 newsletter
Did you know that a vegetarian diet has been part of the Chinese way of life for nearly 3,000 years? Last month I was inspired to write about the connection between veganism and Middle Eastern cooking when I realized how many Middle Eastern dishes were naturally vegan. That article provoked an interest in researching other parts of the world where vegan/vegetarian cuisine is a vibrant aspect of the culture.
The Chinese first embraced vegetarianism for its health benefits. Deh-Ta Hsiung writes in Chinese Vegetarian Cooking, “Traditionally the Chinese have always been highly aware of, indeed one would almost say obsessed by, the link between food and health, whether physical or spiritual…Many Chinese vegetarians were influenced by the indigenous philosophy of Taoism, which developed the hygienic and nutritional science of food closely related to the basic yin-yang principles.”
Some Chinese vegetarians are Buddhist and abstain from eating all meat and fish, as they loathe the slaughter of any living creature. Dairy products naturally are not a staple in Chinese cuisine; so many ‘vegetarian’ Chinese are basically vegan, with the exception an egg here or there.
One of my favorite vegetarian restaurants of all time, and my son, Soren, heartily seconds that, is the Lotus Garden in Eugene, Oregon. Wonderful Chinese vegetarian food if you are ever in the area! This vegan’s paradise offers gorgeous sauces, brilliant vegetables, and marvelous ‘mock’ meats. Soren’s favorite dish is this unique appetizer called ‘Longevity Buns,’ which look like marshmallow flowers and contain a tasty bean mixture inside. These distinctive buns are a perfect example of how Chinese vegetarian cuisine balances appearance and function. Color is equally important to the Chinese cook as aroma, flavor, and form.
Although the Chinese cook pays great attention to the harmonious balance of all aspects of each dish, most dishes are simplistic in seasoning. In this respect, the basic ingredients are allowed to let their own flavors speak for themselves. As many of you already know, while the Chinese vegetarian diet is rich in tofu and vegetables, rice and noodles provide the basis of each meal. Leftover boiled rice becomes fried rice and noodles are the essential ingredient in many soups and Chow Mein. Rice or noodles accompany stir-fries, braised, and steamed dishes. Although a few Chinese veggie dishes are time-consuming and complicated, most contain easy-to-find ingredients with few steps.
If you are planning on eating a Chinese vegetarian style meal at home, there are a few things to note. First of all, the Chinese seldom serve individual plates to each person, but share the dishes with other members at the table. For each person at the table, one unique dish is made. When considering beverages, it is common practice for most Chinese to have soup over tea or water at mealtime. Others may choose to drink wine, beer or alcohol. At the end of the meal, Chinese tea may be served without sugar or milk.
If you are looking for Chinese Vegetarian cookbooks, you will find abundance searching Ebay, Powell’s, and Amazon. Chinese Vegetarian Cooking by Kenneth Lo & Chinese Vegetarian Cooking (deja-vu) by Deh-Ta Hsuing are two that I can personally recommend.
Cucumber Soup
From Chinese Vegetarian Cooking by Deh-Ta Hsiung
1/2 cucumber
2 oz black field mushrooms (or shitake)
2 1/2 cups water
1 1/2 tsp salt
1 tsp sesame seed oil
1 spring onion, finely chopped
Split the cucumber in half lengthwise, and thinly slice but do not peel. Wash and slice the mushrooms, but do not peel. Bring the water to a boil in a wok or large pot. Add the cucumber and mushroom slices and salt. Boil for about 1 minute. Add the sesame seed oil and finely chopped spring onion, stir and serve hot.
Deep-Fried Bean Curd with Mushrooms, Bamboo Shoots & Bean
Sprouts
Adapted from Oriental Vegetarian Cooking by Gail Duff
4 Chinese mushrooms (if unavailable use shitake or crimini, thinly sliced)
1 1/4 lbs. bean curd (tofu)
2 tsp. fine sea salt
1 cup drained, canned bamboo shoots
4 scallions
Oil for deep-frying
2 T peanut oil
1 garlic clove, crushed
2 cups bean sprouts
3 T tamari or shoyu sauce
1 T Chinese rice wine or dry sherry
1 cup vegetable stock
Soak the Chinese mushrooms in hot water for 30 minutes, drain and quarter (or prepare other mushrooms). Cut the bean curd into 4 flat cakes. Lie on a plate, sprinkle with salt and let sit 1 minute. Drain water from plate. Thinly slice the bamboo shoots and chop the onion into 1-inch pieces. Next, heat the oil for deep-frying to a temperature of 350 degrees. Put in the pieces of bean curd one at a time and fry until golden. Lift out on to paper towels. Note: this is where I deviate from the recipe. Instead of deep-frying, I stir-fry the tofu in 1 T peanut oil in a wok on med-high heat for 10 minutes, stirring about every minute. Then, heat the 2 T oil in a wok or large frying pan over high heat. Put in the garlic, and cook 30 seconds. Put in the mushrooms, spring onions, and bean sprouts. Stir-fry 30 seconds. Put in the bean curd, tamari or shoyu sauce, sherry and stock. Cover and simmer 10 to 15 minutes, or until the sauce is thick.
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