by Nancy L. Nelson, from the February 2000 Newsletter

Legendary curries always seem to start with a dozen different spices, roasted for the aroma and ground fresh for an exotic, worldly flavor. In Sri Lanka, roasted spices flavor beef with pickled limes, tomatoes and coconut milk. In Kashmir, it takes eight spices (cumin, coriander, nutmeg, cloves, cardamom, chili powder, saffron and ginger) for a curry of lamb with almonds, raisins and rose petals.

These curries are not simmering on my stove—as delicious as they sound, I'm not roasting and grinding spices each time I want to eat a curry. A more realistic option for me is in the Co-op bulk spice jars, which hold three ready-to-cook spice combinations that create flavors from around the world without sacrificing my coffee grinder in the process.

The Co-op sells three Indian spice combinations: garam masala, regular curry powder, and hot, or muchi, curry powder. The simplest of these flavorings is garam masala, which is sometimes referred to as basic curry powder, or curry powder without turmeric.

The Co-op's garam masala is made of cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, cumin, black pepper and coriander. Because it doesn't have turmeric, garam masala does not give the golden hue to food often associated with curries. The curry made with this garam masala will have an earthier color and flavor and only mild heat, since it doesn't contain red pepper.

Garam masala is actually a modern version of a very old curry powder since red peppers, or chili peppers, are not native to India, where some food historians date the consumption of curry as far back as 1500 BC. Chili peppers weren't added to the curry mix until Christopher Columbus brought chili seeds back from the New World. Portuguese traders carried them to India and it only took a century for the hot peppers to make their way into Indian cooking. Today, they are an important part of Indian cooking and are grown around the world, putting the fire in curries everywhere.

Garam masala does not require as much cooking as curry powders that contain turmeric, which gives a bright yellow or orange color to curries, as well as a bitter, warm flavor. Turmeric needs cooking to keep it from being acrid as well.

Garam masala is the most expensive of the three Indian spice blends at the Co-op, at $16 a pound, compared with $7.91 for curry powder and $9.75 for muchi curry powder. Garam masala's higher price is likely due to its higher percentage of cardamom, which is expensive.

Even at $16 a pound, the Co-op's curry powders are a bargain. Two dollars will buy more than two tablespoons of each of the three powders—enough curry to spice several different dishes for a party of 12, or dinner for two for a week. Curry powders of comparable quality at other local grocery stores start at $5 a jar.

The robust flavor of the Co-op's curry powder comes from its long list of ingredients: turmeric, paprika, fenugreek, coriander, black pepper, cumin, celery seed, cloves, caraway and cayenne pepper. It is a fairly typical curry powder, except for the paprika, which gives the mixture a redder color and somewhat sweeter flavor.

The hot curry, or muchi curry, powder contains three peppers: cayenne, black, and white pepper. The peppers, combined with the 10 other spices, can create a classic curry, which Santha Rama Rau, author of the entertaining and authentic Time Life Book, "The Cooking of India," defined as "a highly seasoned stew with plenty of sauce." By following a few guidelines, a novice cook using any of the Co-op curry powders can create his or her own version of this wonderful dish, even without a recipe:

Start by sautéing a sliced or chopped onion in a tablespoon or two butter or oil with a tablespoon or two of curry powder. Optional flavorings at this step are grated ginger and minced garlic. For a vegetable curry with vegetables that require more than a minute or two cooking time, add the prepared vegetables now. Options include chopped potatoes, cauliflower, corn, carrots, and green beans.

If you are using meat, brown it with the curry powder, or add chopped leftover meat now.

Cook the onion-curry powder mixture about 8 to 10 minutes over medium-low heat until the onions are soft and the vegetables are nearly cooked.

Stir in a cup of liquid such as vegetable or chicken broth, canned tomatoes with their liquid, white wine, or coconut milk. Add vegetables and fruits that cook quickly, like green peas, sweet peppers and chopped apples. This is also the time to add starchy ingredients, including drained garbanzo beans or cooked lentils.

Taste and adjust the flavorings with any of the following: a couple teaspoons of lemon or lime juice, a small handful of raisins or currants, shredded coconut, salt, chopped cashews, peanuts, almonds, or chopped cilantro. If you want a sweeter curry, add a teaspoon or two of sugar or honey.

For a creamier sauce (or to cool down a hot-hot curry) stir in plain yogurt at the end of cooking. The perfect accompaniment for a spicy curry is an equal amount of rice, ideally basmati or jasmine rice. Leftovers keep well, developing better flavor after a day or two in the refrigerator.

WHAT IS CURRY? You can buy it in a can, and you can find it on the ingredients list for that special couscous, and it always, always tastes better at your favorite Indian/Eastern Cuisine dining facility (something that after today, I hope, is no longer a reality). To be honest, curry has a complicated and somewhat elusive definition. Often mistaken by new enthusiasts to be its own special Indian spice, it is actually a blend of many things. Curry has boomed in popularity in Britain over the last century and has just recently crept its way into the American heart and appetite, which explains the somewhat mysterious veil separating budding chefs from adventurous dining.

Curry is not just a blend of spices. While its contents may contain an extensive list of spices -- most commonly chili, cumin, coriander and turmeric – it may be any number of combinations of Eastern and Indian spices in a sauce of pureed onions, garlic, and ginger. Other common ingredients are yogurt, cream, and ground nuts, but again, curry is free in the ways of the kitchen world. It may contain some surprising things. Coconut oil is a very popular ingredient in many fine curries, and I find that such dishes are especially good when combined with fruits, dates or currants, pineapple, and mango, for example.

Curries have such large variations, despite their more specific similarities, because of their history. Curry is popular throughout the Indian sub-continent and is eaten both as a staple food and as fine cuisine. Different regions of India have different likes and dislikes and different local ingredients can greatly alter a curry's flavor and appearance. Depending on natural and trade influences (for instance, a Goan curry is just a little Portuguese) a curry will be red or yellow, hot or mild, like a stew or simply vegetables in a creamy sauce. Its popularity in England is a fine example of how curry adapts for tastes. Chicken Tikka Masala is by far the most popular curry in England, but Indian cuisine in the UK is generally controlled by Bangladeshi immigrants, not Indians.

Cooking with curry is adventurous! Corny, but because of its vague definition and its flexibility, curry can be made to fit your exact tastes (as long as you're craving something somewhat exotic, that is). Curry can be difficult or simple depending on how you decide to experiment. Add some lamb, or fried tofu, or try mixing local apples, raisins, and nuts into the sauce to give it a Western (and certainly delicious) twist. When making curry, it's easy to branch out from the recipe book without turning it into dog food, so have fun.

Here's a tip: one great secret to making curry is to use dried fenugreek leaves. They are often what a curry still needs to be perfect. They aren't always easy to come by, but they hit the spot!

Super Veggie Curry

2 medium sweet potatoes, chop into 1/2" cubes
4 medium white potatoes (red skin are a good choice), chop into 1/2" cubes
3 carrots, peel and chop into 1/2" inch slices
3 Tbs. olive oil
1 jumbo yellow onion
1 red bell pepper (could substitute green), chop into 1" pieces
1/2 lb. mushrooms, quartered
1 medium zucchini squash, slice in half vertically then chop into 1/2" slices
1 medium yellow squash, slice in half vertically and chop into 1/2" slices
2 large tomatoes, medium diced
1 large can Progresso crushed tomatoes
2 cans Progresso chick peas
1/2 c. golden seedless raisins
1/2 c. dark seedless raisins
4 Tbs. or more of mild curry paste, more if you like it hot
2 tsp. salt
1 tsp. dry fenugreek leaves (optional)

Parboil sweet potato, white potato, and carrots until tender crisp. Drain. Set aside. Heat olive oil in a large stock pot. Stir fry onion until pale golden color. Add red peppers and mushrooms and stir fry until thoroughly heated. Add squash and diced tomatoes, continue to stir fry until heated. Add crushed tomatoes, chick peas, raisins, and curry paste. If you feel up to it, exchange some of the raisins for apples. I suggest slightly tart ones (but still more sweet than tart). Bring to a simmer and add potato/carrot mixture. Add salt and continue simmering for 20-30 minutes. Add a little water if necessary. If you are using fenugreek leaves, add them about the last ten minutes of cooking. This curry is even better on the second day!

Katherine Yeary is available for suggestions and new ideas by email. She'd love your help!

Copyright: Copyright on articles and recipes are jointly held by the Moscow Food Co-op and the respective authors, except were otherwise noted.

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