The Versatile Dill (No Sour Pickles Here)

By Katherine Yeary, from the September 2002 Newsletter

Alas, it seems that America's pickling days are over. While we all enjoy a Vlasic here and there, I'm sure, pickling as a means of preservation is no longer necessary—it is a scant few that truly appreciate a brine-swollen pig's foot or asparagus that has all but lost its natural flavor. Despite these shortcomings, however, dill (Anethum graveolens), the plant that gives pickles their famous flavor) is gradually undergoing a rise in popularity.

I, for one, have been an admirer of this herb since I began cooking at age seven, and have continued as such until today. Dill might seem conventional, but I've come to think of dill as delightfully quirky. In medieval times this herb was used to fend off witches and other practitioners of the dark arts. Mystics would wear it over their breasts in self-protection. Its name, "dilla," is of Norse origin, meaning "to lull." It was used for its apparent ability to "lull" babies to sleep. Conversely, the Romans used dill to stimulate soldiers before battle. Dill was even popular in such ancient cultures as Babylon and Syria.

Dill's most famous use outside of pickling is likely its place in potato salad. It succeeds in various dishes, but if you're not careful dill can destroy a recipe. Too, there is a distinct difference between dill seed and dill weed, although both have their qualities. The seed should never be used to replace the weed (or vice versa). The seed is more pungent with a flavor most closely reminiscent to caraway, while the "weed" (or leaf of the herb) has a mellower, fresh flavor.

I find that dill weed has the most uses, as it can be added to a dish before or after it has been cooked, and is most often best after. With a recipe that calls for dill weed and requires that you cook it, it is best to use dried dill. When dried, dill weed can be used as liberally as required without becoming overpowering. If you have a recipe that calls for fresh dill and wish to substitute dried dill, use more dill than is called for (to taste), and add it just before it is finished cooking, if you can.

Fresh dill is tastier, but is a bit trickier to work with. Fresh dill, in my experience, is only worthwhile if it is added as an afterthought, making it an attractive addition to baked potatoes, eggs, hummus, and cream sauces.

If you have fresh dill and wish to store it without drying it, here's a good trick: cut up the leaves and put them in an ice tray, enough to cover the bottom but not to fill the cube to the top. Then add water and freeze. When you are ready to use the dill, allow it to defrost naturally, but don't use the microwave. It will keep in cube form indefinitely, but once it's defrosted it ought to be used right away, citing the purpose of freezing it in individual cubes rather than one big clump.

Katherine's Favorite Mashed Potatoes

enough mashed potatoes to fill a large, glass casserole dish
8 oz. tub or brick of cream cheese
1+ tbsp. dried dill, to taste

While the mashed potatoes are still warm, gradually add the cream cheese and dill. Mix well. Spread mashed potatoes evenly in casserole dish and bake at 350 degrees until the top is golden brown.

Becky's Breakfast Sandwich (a friend made this for me one morning before a long road-trip. It saved me!)

Two eggs (per serving)
Monterey jack cheese, cubed, to taste
Fresh or dried dill, to taste
Two slices of toast (per serving)
Sliced avocado
Sliced tomato (yellow tomatoes are best, but any will do)

In a medium-size frying pan, scramble the eggs, adding the cheese before the yolks harden. While this is cooking, you can be toasting the bread (denser wheat breads are better). Just as the eggs finish, add the dill, stir one or two times, and remove from heat. Put the scrambled eggs on the toast. If you prefer to use condiments, mayonnaise and/or a little yellow mustard go nicely with the dill. Add the sliced avocado and tomato. Enjoy!

Tsatsiki With Zing (great with Greek and Indian dishes)

1 cup plain yogurt
1-2 tbsp. olive oil, to desired consistency
2-5 cloves of garlic
1/2 cup diced cucumber
fresh dill to taste

Mix yogurt, garlic (crushed), and olive oil. Refrigerate. Just before using, add cucumber and dill.

Katherine Yeary recently moved to Moscow. She was born in Canada, raised in the Boise area, and has been cooking for eleven years.

Copyright: Copyright on articles, recipes and images are jointly held by the Moscow Food Co-op and the respective contributors, except were otherwise noted.

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