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Vegan Bites:
Diner Eats
by Hope Matthews, from the September 2006 newsletter
Eggs, fried potatoes, apple pie, table jukeboxes … in Idaho, we are diner deprived. I don’t know what the rest of Idaho is like, but I haven’t seen one diner in the Palouse. On the contrary, I’ve been to diners in Montana, New York, Oregon and Pennsylvania—everything from greasy spoons to vegetarian-friendly.
Diners are the perfect place for 24-hour breakfast eats and hangover food. I can’t count the number of times I visited Jenny’s Diner in Lancaster, Pennsylvania, for black coffee, mozzarella sticks, French fries and onion rings around 2 a.m. Nursing indigestion that hit my gut worse than any hangover never deterred my fondness for the diner scene.
There’s something pretty cool about sharing space with truckers, grandmas and college kids all in one place. Servers never rush you over coffee. On the contrary, you are expected to suck down a few cups at your own leisure before you go. The diner experience is sort of like hanging out at home. No point in getting dressed up; the server takes care of you like Mom and doesn’t forget your mocha latte, and only serves regular, decaf and tea (which is probably why she didn’t forget your coffee to begin with).
Since the diner hasn’t come to us yet, I’m suggesting the next best thing. Purchasing The Chicago Diner Cookbook by Jo A. Kaucher and enjoying the diner experience at home. Well, healthier, vegetarian versions of unpretentious favorites like Sloppy Joes and Hash. This is a real restaurant in Chicago, with a mostly vegan menu. Recipes range from twists on typical diner fare like Perfect Potato Salad and Corn Chowder to subtly exotic selections such as Quinoa-Orange Salad to Gado Gado.
All of the dishes are pretty basic and perfect for home cooking health-conscious comfort food. The menu was created by the Chicago Diner’s original cook and co-owner, Chef Jo A. Kaucher, whose healthy takes on American classics were inspired by the Joy of Cooking. “I always go back to the basics, and Joy of Cooking gives the basic outline of each dish. In my mind I always take away the meat, fish and poultry and put in tofu, tempeh or seitan and take out the white sugars and such,” explains Kaucher.
The Chicago Diner cookbook transcends diner cuisine while embracing it. For example, their Stroganoff doesn’t merely substitute seitan for meat — it adds color, texture, spice and everything nice without any guilt. My friend who visited this restaurant said that the food is absolutely fantastic. A book highly recommended for those of you who want to bring a bit of the diner home to the Palouse.
Recipes below are from The Chicago Diner Cookbook by Chef Jo A. Kaucher.
Diner Gravy
A vegan version of all-American gravy. Try on homemade biscuits and fried tofu
for a decadent breakfast experience.
There are three parts to this recipe: the dry spice mix, the roux and the base.
Any of the parts can be stored and used separately in other dishes. For example,
it’s nice to keep a jar of this dry mix on hand to add to soups and sauces.
You can also make extra roux. It keeps in the refrigerator for a week, and
it’s great for thickening soups, sauces and stews.
Spice Mix:
2 1/2 cups nutritional yeast
1/3 cup dried parsley
1 1/2 Tbsp. salt
! 1/2 Tbsp. dried dill week
2 1/2 Tbsp. celery seed
2 1/2 Tbsp. onion powder
2 tsp. each basil, oregano and thyme
1 tsp. rosemary
In a small, dry bowl, mix all the ingredients well; store in a dry container.
Roux:
1/3 cup soybean oil
1/3 cup unbleached flour
Heat the oil in a small saucepan. When hot, gently whisk in the flour, stirring constantly, until the flour develops a nutty aroma. (Be careful; it burns easily). Set aside.
Base:
4 cups water or light vegetable stock
1/3 cup tamari
1/4 cup spice mix
In a medium pot, bring all of the ingredients to a high simmer. Gradually whisk in the roux and cook to desired thickness. Add a little freshly ground pepper to taste. 8-10 servings. Leftover gravy can be frozen.
Quick Reuben Sauce
My friend who visited this diner enthused about this Reuben sauce! Recommended
for sandwiches or Thousand Island dressing for salads.
1/2 cup finely chopped pickles
1 cup eggless mayonnaise
2/3 cup catsup
Mix all the ingredients together in a bowl.
Sun Salad
An eggless egg salad that sounds divine.
1 1/2 lbs. firm tofu, drained and diced small
1/2 to 1 cup eggless mayonnaise
1/4 cup diced onion
1 to 2 stalks celery, diced
1/2 cup chopped parsley
1/2 cup diced red or green bell peppers
1/3 cup toasted sunflower seeds (see below)
1/2 tsp. salt
1/4 tsp. pepper
1/2 tsp. dry mustard
1/4 tsp. turmeric
2 Tbsp. pickle relish (optional)
Combine all of the ingredients and refrigerate. Best served well chilled.
Note: To toast sunflower seeds, cook in a dry skillet over medium heat until
aromatic. Remove from the pan immediately.
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