by Peggy Kingery, from the October 2000 Newsletter

Growing up on the east coast, I loved everything about fall: sipping sweet cider fresh from an apple press; that cold, exhilarating breeze that stirred up pillars of fallen leaves and made me dig deeper into my fleece-lined jacket; and hiking in the spectacular beauty of the White Mountains of New Hampshire (I didn't even mind sharing the interstate with busloads of leaf peepers from Boston!).

Since moving to Idaho, I've grown to appreciate fall even more. Here, I feel more connected to the land, more attuned to the changes in the environment, and more anxious to begin cooking with the colorful foods in season right now. The harvest is over; the bounty is stored in preparation for the cold weather ahead. It's time to prepare our bodies for the adjustment from shorts and sneakers to ski jackets and Sorels.

During fall, as temperatures grow colder, plants become dormant; the energy they've accumulated during the growing season is stored deep within their tissues in preparation for spring bud-break. This season is associated with the Metal phase of the five transformations cycle, a time when energy is the most concentrated.

The signature flavor of fall cooking is sharp and pungent, like that obtained from daikon and gingerroot - warm and peppery, but not spicy. This is the time of year to cook up richer and heartier dishes with an emphasis on bean stews, sautéed or deep fried vegetables, creamy grain stews, pressure-cooked grains, and pureed squash soups. Fall dishes are usually seasoned with a bit more sea salt and oil than are summer dishes, and raw foods are eaten only occasionally.

The key to supporting Metal energy is to keep it condensed, but not frozen, by choosing some foods that are strengthening and some that are calming. A variety of grains, beans, and seasonal vegetables help do this, as well as provide nourishment for our lungs and large intestines. Long- and short-grain brown rice, sweet brown rice, and mochi provide balanced nutrition and energy.

Among the beans, Great Northern, Lima, navy, and soy (including tempeh and tofu) are most nourishing during fall. They have slightly higher fat content than smaller bean varieties, creating an enduring strength within us; at the same time, their cooling nature relaxes us.

Fall vegetables reflect the colors of the season - gold, orange, and red - and provide an abundance of nutrients. Root vegetables (onions, carrots, parsnips, daikon, and others) are therefore particularly strengthening this time of year. Leafy greens (turnip, carrot tops, and kale), leeks, bok choy, cauliflower, celery, Chinese cabbage, cucumber, and watercress are also needed in our diet because of their ability to help us relax. A note about gingerroot, a seasoning used often in fall cooking: Gingerroot has long been revered for its medicinal powers because it drives warming energy into the body, improving circulation. It's particularly stimulating to the organs in the middle of the body - the pancreas, liver, spleen, and large intestine. I love adding minced gingerroot to tofu stir-frys and lentil dishes.

Fruit doesn't really strengthen Metal energy, but varieties that are compact and not too sweet such as peaches, apricots, and pears can help relax us. Walnuts add a pungent, nutty crunch to stir-frys and grain salads.

Although the conifer forests framing the Palouse lack the vibrant colors of the hardwood forests of my memory, I still feel drawn to them when temperatures begin falling and the air is filled with the scent of moist, senescing vegetation. I'm thankful for the increased stamina and ability to breathe deeply that eating foods that nourish my lungs and large intestines brings me. I'm also thankful to come into my cozy home and sit down to a hearty, warming stew like the one that follows.

Tofu and Miso Stew
(serves 4)

1 ½ cups onions, sliced
½ lb mushrooms, quartered
1 ½ cups winter squash, cubed
1 cup carrots, sliced
½ cup peas
1 ½ cups water
2 Tbsp barley miso
¾ tsp umeboshi paste
1 lb firm tofu, cubed

Combine first six ingredients in a stew pot and bring to a boil. Cover and simmer 20 minutes. Dilute miso in a little water and stir in along with umeboshi paste and tofu. Cover and simmer 20 minutes more. Serve over short-grain brown rice.

Peggy Kingery still misses those hikes in the Whites and her buddies in the Manchester YMCA Outing Club. She's grateful to be sharing the woods these days with her best friend and lifemate, Jim, and four-legged friend, Hannah.

 

Copyright: Copyright on articles and recipes are jointly held by the Moscow Food Co-op and the respective authors, except were otherwise noted.

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