Moscow
Food Co-op
by
Peggy Kingery, from the February 2000 Newsletter
The traditional macrobiotic diet uses various kinds of often unfamiliar but very flavorful supplemental foods. As a beginning macrobiotic cook, I was rather intimidated by some of the ingredients that recipes called upon to flavor foodsumeboshi plums? Gomashio? Curiosity caused me to experiment. Now, the knowledge of the healthful benefits and tastes of these foods have made them staples in my kitchen.
Seasonings
All seasonings in macrobiotic cooking are naturally processed from vegetable sources. In a temperate environment, such as ours, herbs and spices are used sparingly or avoided altogether. This is because overuse of spices can overstimulate the nervous system (causing irritability) and numb the taste buds (remember the last time you overindulged on hot sauce?).
Salt is the most basic seasoning and is essential to life. In traditional cultures, it was obtained by evaporating seawater, by extraction from rock salt deposits, or by burning aquatic plants and retaining the crystallized sediment in the ashes. Unrefined sea salt retains several minerals and about sixty trace elements naturally found in the ocean. The proportion of these varies from 0.5 to 3 %. In contrast, regular table salt is an industrialized product containing about 99.5 % sodium chloride. Although it's made from either sea salt or rock salt, most of the natural trace elements have been removed in processing; magnesium carbonate, sodium carbonate, and potassium iodide have been substituted in their place. Dextrose, sodium bicarbonate, and sodium silicoaluminate are often added to stabilize the iodine and keep the salt white and free-flowing. When used in proper amounts (1/8 teaspoon per cup uncooked grain, a pinch or two in soup or vegetable dishes), sea salt contributes to smooth metabolism, steady energy, and a clear, focused mind. Always keep in mind that salt should enhance and draw out the natural flavor and sweetness of food, not cover them up.
Miso, shoyu, and umeboshi plums are fermented products that are high in iron, thiamin, and riboflavin. Like other fermented foods, they are beneficial to digestion, stimulating the secretion of digestive fluids in the stomach and enhancing the growth of healthy bacterial cultures in the intestinal tract.
Miso is a paste made from fermented soybeans, usually barley or brown rice, sea salt, and an enzyme starter called koji. Shoyu is a seasoning made by inoculating cracked wheat and steamed soybeans with the spores of an aspergillus mold and allowing them to ferment. Umeboshi plums grow in Japan and are related to the apricot. They are traditionally fermented with sea salt and pickled with shiso leaves, and have a tangy salty-sour flavor. Umeboshi vinegar is made from the juice left over from pickling the plums. Umeboshi plums may be used instead of salt to season grains while cooking and make a tangy dressing for noodles, grains, and vegetables. They have medicinal qualities as well because they contain citric acid, which neutralizes lactic acid and creates a more alkaline environment throughout the digestive tract. Umeboshi plums purify the bloodstream, detoxify poisons, stimulate appetite, and can help relieve stomachaches, bloating, nausea, and airsickness.
Ginger is another essential seasoning in macrobiotic cooking. It stimulates the appetite, increases circulation, and adds a mild spicy flavor to the meal. In Far Eastern medicine, it has long been treasured for its healing properties. Research results suggest it may benefit the heart and circulatory systems by slowing blood clotting. When made into tea, it may have an anti-cough effect, lower fever, and reduce pain.
Brown rice vinegar provides a pleasant sour flavor to macrobiotic dishes. It is traditionally made with spring water, koji, seed vinegar (mash from the previous year), and cooked brown rice that have all been mixed, aged, and heated to stop fermentation.
Mirin, barley malt, and brown rice syrup are natural sweeteners used in main dishes and desserts. Mirin is made from fermented sweet rice. Barley malt and brown rice syrup are the "honey" of their respective grains.
Condiments
Condiments are frequently used in small volumes to balance some dishes, especially for providing color and aesthetic enjoyment, to stimulate the appetite, and to aid digestion. They are an excellent source of extra minerals in our diet. Traditional macrobiotic condiments include gomashio, sea vegetable powders, tekka, shio kombu, and shiso leaves.
Gomashio is a staple in macrobiotic kitchens. It's made by grinding roasted sesame seeds and roasted sea salt with a mortar and pestle. Its salty, bitter taste balances the natural sweetness of brown rice, other grains, and vegetables. The proportion of salt to sesame seeds varies from 1:14 to 1:18.
Sea vegetable powders are prepared by roasting sea vegetables for about 10-15 minutes in a 350º oven until they are dark and crumbly, then grinding them with a mortar and pestle until a fine powder remains. They may be combined with roasted sesame seeds for variety. Those made with nori and dulse are the lightest tasting, kombu the heaviest, and wakame the saltiest.
Tekka is a traditional condiment made of burdock, carrot, lotus root, Hatcho miso, and ginger that have been sautéed together for a long time in dark sesame oil and cooked down to a concentrated black powder.
Shio kombu means "salty kombu" and is traditionally made by soaking kombu in shoyu for 1-2 days, covering with water or more shoyu, and cooking over a slow flame for several hours. Roasted sesame seeds are mixed in at the end.
Shiso leaves are the red leaves of the beefsteak plant. They are customarily prepared with umeboshi plums and are also available packaged by themselves. Chopped or roasted, they make a nice condiment for grains, vegetables, and soups.
Ready to experiment? Instead of reaching for your usual herbs, spices, and condiments, try substituting ones from the following list. All of these are recommended foods to use when one of the five senses is missing from the meal:
Sour: sauerkraut, pickles, brown rice vinegar, umeboshi plums, shiso leaves, lemon rinds, or lime rinds;
Bitter: gomashio, tekka, green nori, parsley, wakame powder, dandelion, or walnuts;
Sweet: miso, applesauce, barley malt, brown rice syrup, mirin, or raisins;
Pungent: scallions, watercress, onions, chives, grated daikon, gingerroot, garlic, mustard, or horseradish;
Salty: gomashio, shio kombu, wakame powder, umeboshi plums or paste, miso, or shoyu.
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