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Macro Musings:
Soybeans: The "Meat" of the Fields

by Peggy Kingery, from the January 2000 Newsletter

If someone asked me to predict which food would have the greatest impact on the health of Americans in the new millennium, I'd choose soybeans. And the US Food and Drug Administration might just agree with me. The FDA recently reported that foods containing soy protein may reduce the risk of coronary heart disease by lowering blood cholesterol levels, providing these foods are part of an overall diet low in saturated fat and cholesterol. Their stamp of approval might be just the endorsement soybeans need to boost their popularity.

Soybeans have been cultivated by the Chinese for thousands of years. It wasn't until the 20th century, however, that their nutritive value was recognized in the US and they began to appear on our dinner tables. Before that, they were used mostly for animal feed or export. Of the world's supply of soybeans, approximately 75% are grown in the Western Hemisphere, predominately in the US.

There are more than 1000 varieties of soybeans, ranging from the size of a pea to the size of a cherry, and in a rainbow of colors. The most easily available in the US are yellow and black soybeans. Soybeans aren't a very popular table bean in their whole form. They are bland-tasting and require long soaking and cooking times. Because they contain more protein and fat than other beans, they're not very easy to digest. The best way of getting the healthful benefits of this bean is by eating it in its naturally processed forms such as tofu, tempeh, or miso.

What exactly makes soybeans so healthful? They contain isoflavones, a type of plant estrogen that may slow osteoporosis; relieve some of the side effects of menopause; alleviate many forms of cancer, including breast and prostate; and combat kidney disease and complications from diabetes. In addition, soybeans may lower the level of undesirable low-density lipoprotein cholesterol while raising the beneficial high-density lipoprotein cholesterol. Eating as little as 25 grams of soy protein a day may help prevent these health problems.

With the myriad of food products now made from soybeans, eating those 25 grams of protein has never been easier. On the macrobiotic diet, soybeans and products made from them (along with other types of beans) make up between 5-10% of daily food intake. Because more nutrients are retained the less the food is processed, many of these products should be eaten only occasionally. Those that may be eaten several times a week include tofu, tempeh, miso, shoyu, natto, and okara.

We're probably most familiar with tofu. Traditionally, tofu is made by pressing cooked soybeans to separate the pulp from the "milk," and then mixing the milk with a natural solidifier called nigari (MgCl and CaS6O4 are also used). Nigari is the concentrated residue remaining from processing sea salt. The resulting rectangular white cakes are formed in two main consistencies, soft (silken) or firm. Tofu also comes in other forms: extra firm, low fat, frozen, dried and baked. Although bland by itself, tofu easily absorbs the flavors of other foods and can be boiled, steamed, sautéed, broiled, baked, deep-fried, or eaten raw. Talk about versatility!

Tempeh is another familiar soybean product. This high-protein, traditional Indonesian food is made by inoculating split soybeans, water, and (oftentimes) other grains with a microorganism to initiate fermentation. The fermentation process breaks down the proteins and natural sugars in the soybeans, eliminating digestive concerns. The final product is formed into flat cakes. Like tofu, tempeh has a sponge-like capacity to absorb flavors. It has a rich, nutty, "mushroomy" taste and can be used in stews, salads, and stir-fries.

Some of the other products made from or containing soybeans include: miso (a paste made from fermented soybeans, usually barley or brown rice, sea salt, and an enzyme starter called koji); natto (a fermented soybean product that resembles a cake of tempeh connected by long, sticky strands); okara (the high-fiber, fine grained pulp left over from making tofu); soymilk (a beverage made from the liquid pressed from cooked soy beans, kombu, sea salt and rice syrup); shoyu (a seasoning made by inoculating cracked wheat and steamed soybeans with the spores of an aspergillus mold and allowed to ferment); tamari (similar to shoyu, but wheat-free); soy flour (a low carbohydrate, high protein flour that's used in small volumes in baking); soybean oil; meat analogs; and soy cheeses, yogurt, sour cream, and margarine.

Soymilk is higher in protein than cow's milk, cholesterol free, low in fat and sodium, and rich in iron. It comes in a wide variety of styles: regular, non-fat, enriched, unsweetened, and flavored with vanilla or carob.

If you haven't already tried some of these products, consider including the commitment to do so as one of your New Year's resolutions. Here's an elegant, delicious recipe that'll help you get started.

Tempeh or Tofu Dijonaisse

(serves 4)

8 oz pkg. Tempeh or 1 lb. firm tofu, pressed
2 teasp sesame oil
1/3 cup Dijon mustard
2 T brown rice syrup or honey
1/3 cup rice vinegar
3 tblsp soy milk
2 thinly sliced scallions

Cut tempeh or tofu in cubes. Heat oil over medium heat in skillet and sauté cubes until brown on all sides, about five minutes. Meanwhile, whisk together the mustard, rice syrup and vinegar. Add to the skillet and cook over low heat until the mixture is bubbly, about five minutes. Add the soy milk and stir to allow flavors to blend (don't allow to boil). Sprinkle with scallions, and serve over short grain brown rice.
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