Marinades

In July, I bought a gas grill. I've so enjoyed the distinctive taste of grilled food that I've continued to employ the grill beyond the conventional confines of the summer. As long as the wind is not prohibitively swift (so that the fire might spread), when my palate moves me, I've been enjoying the pleasure of gas-grilled meals this winter. And, as one thing leads to another, I've also been investigating the unctuous pleasure of marinated dishes. Marinades can impart tremendous flavor without the high calorie count characteristic of heavy sauces. If you are not inclined to brave the elements when cooking, marinated food need not be relegated only to the grill.

Marinades are easy to make. They are typically concocted of an acid ingredient, plus oil, and a combination of flavorful spices and aromatic ingredients. The acid ingredient in a marinade softens or denatures the food's tissue. Wine, vinegar, fresh citrus juice, and yogurt can be used as the acid component. The oil in a marinade provides moisture and can, depending on which oil is used, also provide flavor. Canola, grapeseed, and safflower oils are all rather neutral tasting. Extra-virgin olive oil, sesame oil, peanut oil, and cold-pressed nut oils have distinct flavors that will affect the marinade's final symphony of flavors. Be sure to take the oil's character into account if you are concocting your own recipe, or substituting one oil for another. There are so many aromatic elements to choose from when making a marinade – garlic, shallots, ginger, herbs (fresh or dried), citrus zest, spices and spice mixes, hot peppers, liquors, capers, honey, molasses, prepared sauces (such as Worcestershire, soy, or hoisin), anchovies, and so on.

A successful marinade works as an emulsion. If the oil ingredient is not suspended in liquid in an emulsion form, the marinade will not work well. Instead the fat will simply coat the food, and prevent the acid and the aromatics from working their magic. Use a blender or a whisk to whip the ingredients into a stable emulsion. Or combine your ingredients in a jar with a tight-fitting lid and shake them together very well. My preferred tool for mixing marinade (or salad dressing) is a Braun hand (stick) blender. It works just as well if not better than my old-fashioned upright blender, and it is so much easier to clean.

When working with marinades, use non-reactive equipment - no aluminum containers. Some people use plastic Ziploc freezer bags as convenient disposable marinating containers, but I don't. The idea that the marinade's acid ingredients might be adding plastic compounds to my recipe is not a notion I enjoy. I think glass containers works best.

Pay attention to marinating times. Do not leave a food in the marinade beyond the recommended time. Also, don't reuse a marinade. Not only do the aromatic elements lose their punch with use, but re-using marinades is also a questionable sanitary practice. If you want to baste with your marinade, thoroughly heat it before brushing it on your partially cooked food. And be aware that when grilling over high heat, the oil in the marinade may cause fires to flare.

The following two recipes are from Marinades by Jim Tarantino. These marinades work well for heightening the flavor of vegetables as well as meat. Take the absorbency and firmness of your vegetable's tissue into account when determining the marinade's timing.

Lemon-Caper Marinade

1/3 cup fresh lemon juice
1 1/2 Tbsp. grated lemon zest
1 tsp. Dijon-style mustard
1/2 cup olive oil
3 Tbsp. medium capers, rinsed
3 garlic cloves, minced or pressed
2 Tbsp. chopped shallots
2 Tbsp. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
Salt and crushed black peppercorns, to taste

Combine the lemon juice, zest, and mustard in a nonreactive mixing bowl. Whisk in the olive oil a little at a time. Add the capers, garlic, shallots, parsley, salt and pepper. This marinade will keep in an airtight jar in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.

Yield: 1 1/2 cups; recommended for seafood, marinating for 2 to 3 hours.

South Carolina Mustard Marinade

1/2 cup cider vinegar
2 Tbsp. Dijon-style mustard
1 Tbsp. pure maple syrup or honey
2 tsp. Worcestershire sauce
1/2 tsp. Tabasco sauce
1/3 cup safflower oil
2 Tbsp. chopped fresh herbs (such as tarragon, rosemary, thyme, etc.)
1 Tbsp. diced shallots

Combine the vinegar, mustard, maple syrup, Worcestershire, and Tabasco in a nonreactive mixing bowl. Whisk in the oil a little at a time. Add the herbs and shallots.

Yield: 2 cups; recommended for chicken breasts (2 to 4 hours), wings (6 to 8 hours), pork chops (3 to 4 hours), or spare ribs (8 hours or overnight).

Pamela Lee will write about dry rubs next month.

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