Photo courtesy Professor Lori Carris, Washington State University

Morel Mushrooms

Here on the Palouse, the merry month of May is significant for several reasons: tulips, the Renaissance Fair, and the end of the school year pop quickly to mind. May is also morel mushroom season.

For the past several years, the Moscow Food Co-op has been carrying local morel mushrooms in the produce section, and if you've never indulged, don't miss this opportunity—the morel season is a fleeting one.

The more adventurous among us may decide to try their very own mushroom excursions. If you are a first time hunter, you should make your first expedition with someone who knows what a good morel looks like. There are several types of morels, some edible and others poisonous.

Also keep in mind when you are harvesting this incredible wild food, that care should be taken to preserve the habitat and future of 'shrooming.'

Mushrooms reproduce by means of spores. The fruit of the morel organism (the mushroom we pick) contains hundreds of thousands of microscopic spores that are intended to return to the earth for their reproduction. The morel spore takes five years to create another mushroom. It is highly recommended that all mushroom hunters use mesh bags (like an onion sack) or baskets when collecting mushrooms, which will allow spores to drop back to the forest floor as the picker walks. Indeed, we can help Mother Nature as this method also mixes strains of spore. This is particularly important when you're hunting in areas you'll want to return to year after year as predictable, favorite spots.

To ensure that you are able to best pick, prepare, and preserve the morels you come across, keep in mind these hints and precautions:

1. It is important to not disturb the mycelium (the delicate, root-like filaments that make up any fungus) by pulling the mushroom entirely from the ground. Some suggest having scissors or a sharp knife to snip morels off just above the ground, but pinching the very base of the stem, carefully and cleanly, is probably adequate.
2. Air circulation and avoidance of moisture are essential in keeping your morel catch fresh. Never use a plastic bag. Never put your find in a warm or humid place (car trunk, for example). Morels will deteriorate rapidly if not kept cool and dry after they are picked.
3. Keep your collection as free from dirt as possible. Morels, amazingly, push through the forest floor with no loose soil or grit on them. Try to keep them that way.
4. Wash and cut fresh mushrooms into quarters, slicing the long way. Soak in a large bowl of salt water to remove and kill any hitchhiking insects. Morel mushrooms are at their best when cooked immediately, but if you plan to cook your 'shrooms within a day or two after picking, make sure to drain the excess water and keep them covered with damp paper in the fridge. This prevents your mushrooms from getting soggy and mushy.
5. To soak dried morels: Dried morels should be re-hydrated in twice their volume of warm water until tender, 10 to 30 minutes. Lift morels out of soaking liquid and strain liquid through a fine sieve into a bowl, reserving it if desired. Pat drained morels dry with paper towels.
6. Do not eat raw morels as they can cause digestive disorders.

You can prepare morel mushrooms much like you would any mushroom—sautéing them, adding them to sauces, and grilling them would all work just fine. Experiment and enjoy their unique, lusty taste. And you might try this for a special treat:

Cream of Morel Soup

A heavenly soup that will make you eager for the earthy delights of spring every year after.

Ingredients:

3/4 lb. fresh morels (more or less to taste and your hunting success), quartered and sliced
1 large leek
3 medium to small russet potatoes
1 cup chicken stock
1 cup heavy cream
1/2 cup dry white wine
2 tbsp. butter or mild vegetable oil
salt and pepper to taste
2 cups water

1. Chop off dark green leek leaves and roots. Slice the stem lengthwise and rinse under cold water, making sure to remove all grit trapped between layers. Peel and halve potatoes. Add potatoes and leeks to soup pot with the water. Boil moderately until quite tender, 20-30 minutes.
2. Heat a medium-size pan over a medium flame. Add butter, morels, and a few dashes of salt. Cook morels gently for about 15 minutes, making sure they do not dry out. Add a small bit of wine at a time to keep them moist. When nearly done, add remaining wine, turn up flame, and continue cooking until liquid is almost gone. Add chicken stock and stir until blended.
3. When potatoes and leeks are tender, remove from heat and puree or blend until smooth. Return to pot.
4. Add morel mix to potato/leek mixture and simmer very gently, stirring occasionally to avoid scorching. After about 5-10 minutes, add cream and salt and pepper to taste. Serve hot, immediately.

Robin Ohlgren-Evans welcomes spring anytime of year, but especially in May. Your comments are welcome: rohlgren@moscow.com.

Copyright: Copyright on articles, recipes and images are jointly held by the Moscow Food Co-op and the respective contributors, except were otherwise noted.

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