By Pamela Lee, from the January 2000 Newsletter
With our current culture's fear of fat, some people may have forgotten how healthful nuts and seeds can be. Most of us need no reminder of how deliciously satisfying nuts are–eaten out of hand, in candy, baked goods, pasta, or even atop a salad or casserole. Most of us are aware that the high fat content of nuts plays a large role in their mouth-satisfying good taste. But, did you know that nuts and seeds are classified as proteins, not fats, on the Food Guide Pyramid?

A nut is a large seed, encased in a shell. The nut contains all the ingredients necessary to start a new plant, so it follows rather logically that nuts are also nutritional storehouses for us. Indeed nuts are high in fat, but they also supply vitamins, minerals like iron, zinc, and potassium, essential fatty acids, dietary fiber, as well as protein.

The protein in nuts can be enhanced by combining them with beans or dairy products (to provide the amino acids lysine and isoleucine). One-third cup nuts, or two tablespoons of nut butter, is roughly equivalent to one ounce of lean meat. Unlike the fat of red meat (which has a high saturated fat profile), the fat from a nut or seed is typically monounsaturated or polyunsaturated (depending on the type of nut).

Scientists at Loma Linda University in California tracked and examined the diets of over 31,000 Seventh-Day Adventists (who are typically vegetarians). The study found that individuals that ate nuts five or more times a week were half as likely to have a fatal heart attack than those who rarely (or never) ate nuts. Subsequent research at several universities are showing that incorporating 1-3 ounces of nuts (walnuts, peanuts, or macadamias) each day into an overall low-fat diet can reduce LDL cholesterol, which can clog arteries. While some fat-wary nutritionists advise eating no more than two tablespoons (about 2 an ounce) of nuts a day, the large-scale Loma Linda study showed that people who ate nuts regularly had no larger waist-lines than those who avoided nuts.

Because nuts are prone to rancidity, they should be carefully stored in the warehouse, the store, and once you get them home. Purchase nuts from a store, like the Co-op, that has a regular turnover of their products. If you've a sensitive palette, rancidity can be tasted, for it destroys the delicate flavor of the nut's oil. I'd describe rancidity as a bitter "off-flavor". Rancidity can also be detected visually. Good nuts are typically uniform in color. Mottled dark patched usually indicates that rancidity has begun. Rancidity destroys vitamins A, E, and F. Some experts even believe that eating the rancid seeds will also destroy these vitamins in your body.

Avoid nuts that appear shriveled or moldy. Some nuts, like almonds, brazil nuts, (especially) peanuts, pecans, pistachios, and walnuts, are vulnerable to aflatoxin. Aflatoxin is a mold that is carcinogenic. It is produced by the Aspergillus flavus fungus that grows on weakened plants. Organically grown nuts and peanuts are less likely to be affected since they are more likely to have been raised in ecologically balanced soil. Another reason to buy organic nuts is that poisons and toxins tend to accumulate most in fatty foods.

Unshelled nuts keep up to one year when stored in a cool dry spot. Shelled nuts should be refrigerated, or frozen, in tightly sealed containers. Shelled nuts are good for three to nine months in the refrigerator or up to one year in the freezer. It is good practice to mark the date on the container that you store nuts in when you first bring them home. Broken nuts are even more susceptible to rancidity, so either chop or slice them yourself, as needed–or–purchase sliced or chopped nuts in small quantities, right before you use them.

Roasting enhances the rich, buttery taste of nuts. Roasting eliminates the bitter grassy taste of some nut varieties. But, because roasting brings the oils to the surface, they can turn rancid more quickly. Either purchase roasted nuts in quantities that will be consumed within a month, or roast them yourself as you consume them. Raw nuts can be roasted in the oven or in a pan on top of the stove.

To oven roast, spread shelled nuts (except macadamia nuts) in a single layer in a baking pan with a rim. A rimmed jellyroll or half-sheet pan works well. Bake in a preheated 325-degree oven. Stir and check the nuts often until they are just slightly golden brown. Since the nuts will continue to roast while they are cooling, remove them from the oven just as soon as they are lightly golden and the nutty aroma begins to permeate your kitchen. Pine nuts take about 5 to 7 minutes to roast. Pecans, pistachio nuts, and walnuts take 8 to 10 minutes. Almonds and hazelnuts can take up to 15 minutes. Macadamia nuts need a lower roasting temperature because they scorch easily. Roast them at 275-300 degrees for up to 20 minutes. Since oven temperatures and the circulation of air within ovens vary greatly, watch the nuts carefully. Check them frequently so you do not overcook them.

Roasted nuts can also be salted. To salt before baking, place nuts in a bowl, cover with water, and then drain them. Place the damp nuts on your baking pan, sprinkle with salt (to taste), and then roast. Another way to add salt and flavor is to sprinkle the nuts with tamari shoyu towards the end of oven roasting. Sprinkle tamari onto the partially baked nuts, stir to coat evenly, and place them back in the oven to dry for 2-4 minutes. Watch carefully, and stir the nuts, so the tamari does not scorch or burn.

To pan roast nuts, place them in a thin layer in a fairly heavy skillet over low heat. Stir and check frequently for doneness. The different roasting times, above, should give you a rough guide of which nuts will pan roast more quickly, which more slowly.

Some people are bothered by the flavor of the nut skins, such as on almonds, filberts (also called hazelnuts), or walnuts. Personally, I've never minded the skins of almonds or filberts, but the bitter skin on walnuts is not to my taste. Nut skins can be removed before roasting, or before being used as an ingredient in a dish. There are two ways to skin a nut–by blanching or by roasting. To remove the skins of unroasted nuts, immerse them in rapidly boiling water 15 to 20 seconds, until the skins shrivel and loosen. Drain the nuts in a sieve, then let them cool until they can be handled. The skins should slip off easily when the nut is squeezed or rolled between your fingers, or when rolled between layers of a dish towel.

Walnuts are more challenging to skin than filberts or almonds using the blanching method. A fresh walnut seems to part with its skin more easily than an aged nut. I've found with walnuts, baking them 8 to 10 minutes at 325 degrees, then rubbing them vigorously between layers of kitchen towels, is a better skinning method than blanching. Though more work is required, a skinned, roasted walnut conveys a much more delicate, less tannic, taste experience than the raw nut.

Copyright: Copyright on articles and recipes are jointly held by the Moscow Food Co-op and the respective authors, except were otherwise noted.

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