| Radishes R Us | |
by
Judy Sobeloff, from the July 2006 newsletter
Write about a radish. Too many people write about the moon. The night is black … A radish rises in the waiting sky.
– Karla Kuskin
Alas, to write about a radish is to wish one were writing about horseradish. Then, surely, the words would flow. One could make the joke about “which part of the horse is the radish?” One would not be procrastinating, rummaging in one’s kitchen for a knife to carve the petals of a radish rose. Instead one might be rubbing shoulders with the Oracle at Delphi, who told Apollo that “the radish is worth its weight in lead, the beet its weight in silver, the horseradish its weight in gold” (www.horseradish.org).
On the other hand, radishes in Greek and Roman times often weighed 50 to 100 pounds each (www.heirloomseeds.com), which is a respectable chunk of lead. In Oaxaca, Mexico, right before Christmas, people celebrate the Noche de Rabanos (Night of the Radishes) by carving nativity scenes and scenes from local life on giant radishes. The horseradish toss at the International Horseradish Festival pales in comparison.
Radishes are a member of the cabbage family, related to mustard, with the name radish coming from the Latin word radix, or root, representing the part that is eaten. Radishes date back to approximately 500 B.C.E. in China and 1000 C.E. in Japan, with remains of radishes discovered in excavations of ancient Egypt dating back to nearly 3000 B.C.E. Ancient Greeks are said to have offered radishes to the gods, though in light of the Delphic Oracle’s comments to Apollo above, perhaps some gods might have preferred an alternate selection.
According to Co-op produce manager Scott, the Co-op tends to carry three basic kinds of radishes: red globe, the prototypical red radish; Easter egg, which grow in aesthetically pleasing red, magenta and white bunches; and daikon, long white radishes with a Japanese name.
I’ll say upfront that I’ve never been a radish enthusiast, though exposure has been limited, as my spouse gobbles up every radish which enters our house. Affection for radishes is perhaps a fleeting thing. While the Roman poet Horace wrote that radishes were a vegetable “to excite the languid stomach,” I read elsewhere that “the Romans ate radishes for breakfast, though they often skipped breakfast” (www.practicallyedible.com). The irony of this statement was not noted.
In any case, right now is a great time to enjoy radishes, as, Scott tells me, radishes are “one of the first things you can plant and harvest locally.” Those who don’t enjoy the spiciness of radishes may be pleased to learn that this can be reduced by peeling, as most of the spiciness is in the skin, though peeling will reduce the rest of the flavor as well.
While daikon radishes are recommended served in stir fries, grated raw over salads, or pickled, I made dishes with both the Easter egg and red globe varieties and enjoyed both. The first one, Cucumber-Radish Relish, was pretty in a pink confetti baby shower sort of way, and simultaneously spicy and sweet due to the mix of radish, onion and cucumber. Butter-Braised Radishes turned out to be a mild buttery treat in a surprisingly pink sauce. Reading that braised radishes were to be served with bread, I first expected to slice them, but lo! we were expected to balance the round radishes on top like trained seals, thus adding an element of challenge to our meal. No problem, as my children pierced them with skewers, calling them “lollipops.” Those wishing a simpler version might prefer to follow the instructions from practicallyedible.com for a method served in France at the start of a meal: “You split the radish with your knife, spread it apart a bit, dip it in the sea salt on your plate, and enjoy with the bread.”
CUCUMBER-RADISH RELISH (adapted from www.hungrybrowser.com/phaedrus)
2 medium cucumbers, peeled and cut into 1/4-inch cubes
8 large red radishes, cleaned and grated
1/3 cup minced red onion
2 Tbsp. chopped fresh cilantro
3 Tbsp. fresh lime juice
1/8 tsp. cayenne pepper
Combine all ingredients in a medium bowl. Chill until ready to serve.
BUTTER-BRAISED RADISHES (adapted from How to Cook Everything)
2 Tbsp. Butter
1 Tbsp. canola or other neutral oil
1 lb. radishes, trimmed
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1/4 cup chicken, beef or vegetable stock, or white wine
1 Tbsp. or more balsamic vinegar or other vinegar
1 tsp. sugar
Minced fresh parsley leaves for garnish.
Heat the butter and oil on medium heat in a medium to large skillet that can later be covered. When the butter melts, add the radishes and cook, stirring, until they are coated with butter, just a minute or two longer. Season with salt and pepper. Add the remaining ingredients except the parsley, stir, and cover. Cook on low heat until the radishes are barely tender, about 5 minutes. Uncover and raise the heat to medium-high. Cook, stirring, until the radishes are glazed and the liquid is syrupy, another few minutes. Taste and adjust seasoning, garnish and serve.
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