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Simply Tofu:
Humble Beginnings and Tales from the
Tuffet
by R. Ohlgren-Evans, from the June 2005 newsletter
Welcome to the new Co-op Newsletter column, Simply Tofu. Each month will feature recipes and articles related to this beguiling, ancient soy product, which has become an essential staple in many of today’s kitchens.
The story goes that tofu was first made in China about 164 B.C. from soybeans and nigari, a calcium-rich liquid taken from seawater. Bamboo hats off to the persevering folks, who undoubtedly withstood the laughter and humiliation of the entire village as they soaked, boiled, ground, and drained the soybean mash. Add to the resulting slurry a coagulant (today we use refined calcium sources such as magnesium chloride or calcium sulfate, but seawater was the agent of the day…); separate the curds from the whey and, Voila! – soybean curd, aka tofu, was born.
Sounds straightforward, no?
As one who dared to venture into the art of making tofu back in my younger, leaner, and slightly desperate (the prairies of my Minnesota farming community offered little in the way of alternative eating) days – I have much to thank those forward-thinking villagers for. Three days into my own nightmare of souring soy sludge, I threw the milky mass to the chickens, closed that chapter of my Ten Talents cookbook forever, and left tofu production to the professionals – after all, tofu is one of the oldest processed foods known to humankind and there was no way I was going to improve on more than 2000 years of appropriate technology.
Once the tofu-making process gets to the Miss Muffet stage (curds-and-whey), draining determines the final texture of the tofu. Before the curds are drained, they retain a high water content and a custardlike texture. These curds are known as silken tofu. Curds drained more thoroughly and pressed into blocks are labeled soft, medium, firm, and extra-firm tofu, depending upon how much water has been released.
The following two recipes use two different textures of tofu – firm and silken. They are both family favorites.
1/2 pound firm tofu, pressed, then cut in 1-in cubes
1 Tbs peanut oil
1 small onion, sliced thin
1 small green bell pepper, sliced thin
2 serrano chiles, seeded and minced
2 tsp curry powder
1/2 c canned coconut milk
1/2 c chicken broth
Salt to taste
1/3 c chopped cilantro leaves
3 Tbsp chopped roasted peanuts
Press the tofu. (Loosely wrap the block of tofu in multiple layers of a clean kitchen towel. Set it on a plate and place a 1-pound bag of beans on top. Let rest for 15 minutes. Rewrap the tofu in a dry section of the towel, set the beans on top, and set aside for an additional 15 minutes, or overnight in the refrigerator). Cut into cubes.
Heat peanut oil in large skillet - when it’s hot add the tofu cubes. Sauté, turning frequently, until the tofu is golden. Add onion & peppers & cook until they’re wilted a little. Add curry powder, coconut milk, & chicken broth. Stir well to combine & add salt to taste. Bring to a simmer and let the tofu cook for several minutes, until the sauce begins to thicken. Serve over rice or in soup plates garnished with the cilantro and peanuts.
Chocolate-Mint Mousse
This rich dessert is packed with protein and calcium, and doesn’t
even
need the whipped cream topping often associated with mousse.
8 oz silken tofu
¼ c cocoa
2 oz finely chopped chocolate (bittersweet or semi-sweet or combination of the two)
¼ c boiling water
1 tsp vanilla extract
¼ tsp peppermint extract
¼ c egg whites
1/3 c sugar
Puree tofu in food processor until velvety smooth. Combine cocoa and chocolate in bowl with boiling water and stir until smooth. Add tofu and extracts. Beat egg whites until frothy on medium. Continue beating on high and add sugar slowly until meringue is stiff and shiny.
With spatula, fold ¼ of egg whites into chocolate mixture – then fold chocolate mixture back into meringue until just blended. Pour mousse mixture equally into 6 individual small cups or bowls (wine glasses make an elegant presentation) and chill until ready to serve.
Robin Ohlgren-Evans has learned to ignore certain comments at the dinner table, such as, ‘Mom – are we having tofu again tonight?’
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