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Fraud: Yam Masquerades as Sweet Potato - Family
Stunned
by Katherine Yeary
Illustrations by Katherine Yeary
from the December 2002 newsletter
Every Thanksgiving and Christmas, and occasionally at Easter, my grandmother could be relied on to make what she called “candied yams.” They tasted just like “candy.” She won special adoration from my two siblings and myself for her addition of marshmallows to the top layer of the casserole. (It was, at that time, out of my young grasp to understand that this was a fairly classic addition on the part of yam lovers everywhere, the delectably browned and gooey-ed layer of sugar seemed a sure sign to me of my grandmother’s genius and originality.) I have rather lamentably discovered, since such time, that not only is the marshmallow trick far less than secret at any holiday table, but what my dear grandmother was calling “yam” was hardly yam at all. This mistake, however, seems about as common as the collective American awareness of the versatility of Jet-Puffs. In fact, the odd orange-red mush winning the hearts of sugar-lovers everywhere is derived from the sweet potato.
Native to Central America, sweet potatoes have been cultivated in the United States since the 16th century. Yams, in reality, are not even in the same family as sweet potatoes. Sweet potatoes are actually part of the marigold family, and aren’t tubers exactly, but the very large root of some little green things.
Sweet potatoes are, thankfully, fairly nutritious. They’re a great source of vitamin A and a good source of potassium and vitamin C, B6, riboflavin, copper, pantothetic acid, and folic acid. They’re actually healthier than white potatoes, in some ways, and are rich in beta carotene (citing the orange color).
If you’re out to purchase raw, whole sweet potatoes rather than the canned variety, select those that are firm and have no obvious cracks or bruises. Kept in a refrigerator, raw sweet potatoes may lose or change their flavor. The most well cared for sweet potato lasts about two weeks in a cool, dark, well-ventilated space. The temperature should be below sixty degrees Fahrenheit. Cooked, they can be frozen, but are best kept in the fridge for up to one week and discarded afterwards.
Sweet potatoes are extremely versatile, which nurtures playfulness in the kitchen. They can be eaten in savory or sweet dishes. The potatoes themselves are characteristically sweet, but they make great additions to curries. As a snack, try deep-frying the sweet potato cut into spears, fry-style, and mix some curry spices with yogurt for a tasty dip. Alternatively, a sweet potato is fantastic cut in half and filled with only a little brown sugar and butter, foiled, and baked at 350 degrees until tender. Sweet potato can be made into fritters and casseroles, is wonderful with coconut, and makes a delicious pie (made much like pumpkin pie, with a sort of twist).
The following is a modified recipe of my grandmother’s sweet-potato recipe. I present the recipe as a pudding, with the potatoes mashed, but encourage you all to try it cubed. The texture is only slightly less creamy and a little more digestible for those of us who suffer from textural turn-offs.
Sweet Potato Pudding
Two large sweet potatoes
½ cup butter (generally, one stick)
1 cup dark brown sugar
1/3 cup white sugar
4 eggs, beaten
2/3 cup orange juice
2 tsp. vanilla
Cinnamon and nutmeg to taste, including any other available spice or addition that would improve the flavor to your liking. Marshmallows (optional).
Heat oven to 350 degrees. Boil sweet potato, drain, and mash. In a large bowl, combine the eggs, orange juice, butter, sugars, vanilla, and sweet potato. Pour in a two-quart dish and bake in preheated oven for about 40 minutes. If using marshmallows, cover the top of the pudding completely with them once the pudding is in the dish (I prefer the smaller kind; they layer better.)
Katherine would like to wish everyone a very Merry Christmas.
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