In the depth of the winter I love walking into my house and smelling a blossom, a green growing thing. I bring this about by forcing bulbs, a simple process that brings much reward. My favorite bulb for forcing is the Paperwhite Narcissus, Narcissus tazette. They are easy to work with because they don’t require any chilling. Amaryllis is another bulb that doesn’t require chilling and brings forth a stunningly dramatic flower which makes you feel like you’ve performed quite a feat! The following instructions are for forcing paperwhites, but I include directions at the end for forcing amaryllis, a slightly different process.
Bulbs should be purchased in the fall for forcing. I focus on forcing paperwhites and amaryllis but if you are interested in forcing other bulbs consult with the nursery where you buy them for chilling requirements. Suitable containers can be found in your cupboard. I use vases primarily and drainage holes are not necessary. Select containers that have tall sides as the plants can get quite lanky and will topple over without support. The diameter of the container need only be slightly bigger around than the diameter of the bulbs you want to put in it. Sometimes my container is just a little smaller than the bulbs and I will slightly layer them to make them all fit. I like to plant at least 3 bulbs in my containers. However, the amaryllis is a very large bulb and just one is sufficient for a nice display. After selecting containers, I go outside to scour my yard for a suitable planting medium. I generally choose gravel from the driveway, sometimes with a little sand mixed in. If I can find some attractive pebbles or small rocks I will use them instead. I do not use any soil, nor do I fertilize. Next place a small layer of the planting medium in the bottom of the container. A couple of inches are enough for smaller plantings, more for larger and taller containers. This is where the roots will grow. Arrange the bulbs on this layer, packed as closely together as possible without squishing them, a little closer than you would be comfortable standing in an elevator with strangers. Then put more of your medium into the container around the bulbs and up to just a bit above their necks. You should barely see the tops of the bulbs at this point. This layer will help to support the bulbs as they grow. Place a little water in the container, as high as the base layer of planting medium, just below the bulbs. The bulbs require dark and cool conditions. A basement is perfect but any dark, unheated area in the home will also work. A closet in a cool room is sufficient. Paperwhites and amaryllis bulbs can’t withstand a freeze. It will take paperwhites 3-5 weeks to bloom from planting and amaryllis, 6-8 weeks. Check on them weekly and keep the bottom layer moist but never allow the bulbs to sit in water. When the green top growth is an inch or two high bring the container into a cool, 60-65 degree room with very good light. Stake if necessary, and wait for the magical, cold winter day when the miracle of your bulb presents itself as a perfectly formed, fragrant flower with the ability to bring forth memories of spring gardens. Plant an amaryllis bulb in a 6- to 8-inch pot with drainage holes. Fill halfway with potting soil and place the bulb in the pot. Add more soil and pack around the bulb leaving about a third of the bulb above the soil line. Water thoroughly after planting and once a week thereafter. Place the pot in a sunny location on your windowsill; a cool and dark period is not required. Once you have the technique of forcing mastered, and if you are good at record keeping (not my strong suit), it is fun to stagger the watering process and thereby set up a succession of bloom to last through the winter. My thanks to Leigh Ann Decker at Crossroads Nursery for sharing information on bulb forcing. Remember to rake those leaves this month! See another article about Forcing Bulbs.
Holly Barnes finds ways to make the gardening season last as long as possible. |
