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WHAT IS CURRY? You can buy it in a can, and you can find it on the ingredients list for that special couscous, and it always, always tastes better at your favorite Indian/Eastern Cuisine dining facility (something that after today, I hope, is no longer a reality). To be honest, curry has a complicated and somewhat elusive definition. Often mistaken by new enthusiasts to be its own special Indian spice, it is actually a blend of many things. Curry has boomed in popularity in Britain over the last century and has just recently crept its way into the American heart and appetite, which explains the somewhat mysterious veil separating budding chefs from adventurous dining.
Curry is not just a blend of spices. While its contents may contain an extensive list of spices -- most commonly chili, cumin, coriander and turmeric – it may be any number of combinations of Eastern and Indian spices in a sauce of pureed onions, garlic, and ginger. Other common ingredients are yogurt, cream, and ground nuts, but again, curry is free in the ways of the kitchen world. It may contain some surprising things. Coconut oil is a very popular ingredient in many fine curries, and I find that such dishes are especially good when combined with fruits, dates or currants, pineapple, and mango, for example. Curries have such large variations, despite their more specific similarities, because of their history. Curry is popular throughout the Indian sub-continent and is eaten both as a staple food and as fine cuisine. Different regions of India have different likes and dislikes and different local ingredients can greatly alter a curry's flavor and appearance. Depending on natural and trade influences (for instance, a Goan curry is just a little Portuguese) a curry will be red or yellow, hot or mild, like a stew or simply vegetables in a creamy sauce. Its popularity in England is a fine example of how curry adapts for tastes. Chicken Tikka Masala is by far the most popular curry in England, but Indian cuisine in the UK is generally controlled by Bangladeshi immigrants, not Indians. Cooking with curry is adventurous! Corny, but because of its vague definition and its flexibility, curry can be made to fit your exact tastes (as long as you're craving something somewhat exotic, that is). Curry can be difficult or simple depending on how you decide to experiment. Add some lamb, or fried tofu, or try mixing local apples, raisins, and nuts into the sauce to give it a Western (and certainly delicious) twist. When making curry, it's easy to branch out from the recipe book without turning it into dog food, so have fun. Here's a tip: one great secret to making curry is to use dried fenugreek leaves. They are often what a curry still needs to be perfect. They aren't always easy to come by, but they hit the spot! Super Veggie Curry 2 medium sweet potatoes, chop into 1/2" cubes 4 medium white potatoes (red skin are a good choice), chop into 1/2" cubes 3 carrots, peel and chop into 1/2" inch slices 3 Tbs. olive oil 1 jumbo yellow onion 1 red bell pepper (could substitute green), chop into 1" pieces 1/2 lb. mushrooms, quartered 1 medium zucchini squash, slice in half vertically then chop into 1/2" slices 1 medium yellow squash, slice in half vertically and chop into 1/2" slices 2 large tomatoes, medium diced 1 large can Progresso crushed tomatoes 2 cans Progresso chick peas 1/2 c. golden seedless raisins 1/2 c. dark seedless raisins 4 Tbs. or more of mild curry paste, more if you like it hot 2 tsp. salt 1 tsp. dry fenugreek leaves (optional) Parboil sweet potato, white potato, and carrots until tender crisp. Drain. Set aside. Heat olive oil in a large stock pot. Stir fry onion until pale golden color. Add red peppers and mushrooms and stir fry until thoroughly heated. Add squash and diced tomatoes, continue to stir fry until heated. Add crushed tomatoes, chick peas, raisins, and curry paste. If you feel up to it, exchange some of the raisins for apples. I suggest slightly tart ones (but still more sweet than tart). Bring to a simmer and add potato/carrot mixture. Add salt and continue simmering for 20-30 minutes. Add a little water if necessary. If you are using fenugreek leaves, add them about the last ten minutes of cooking. This curry is even better on the second day! Katherine Yeary is available for suggestions and new ideas
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