But before you reject all bitterness from your table, consider a few tastes that some of us have grown quite fond of. Orange marmalade depends on the bitterest portion of the orange for its flavor. I suppose we could make orange jelly, but what would be the point when there's rich, strong marmalade? And don't forget bitter greens—I know some readers will refrain, but others are waiting for spring to raise a crop of mustard. They know that a bitter herb delightfully balances a meal of potatoes, white beans or pork.

Which brings me by the backdoor to fenugreek, one of those strange-sounding, strange-looking herbs at the Coop that makes you wonder, "Is this medicine, tea, or spice?"

The answer, as frequently happens with herbs, is that it is all three. I will stick to cooking with fenugreek, because it fascinates me with its bitter qualities so unusual in more common spices.

To bite down on a fenugreek seed is to wonder why anyone bothered to harvest the thing. But cook with it, and you add a complexity of flavor that most food lacks. For a hint of fenugreek's flavors, consider that it is the flavor-making component of imitation maple flavoring. Fenugreek might taste bitter at first, but its smoky, caramel-like finish is what you'll remember.

Bitter flavors prompt our bodies to secrete bile, which aids digestion, and believe it or not, makes a hint of bitter taste appetizing.

Fenugreek is most commonly used in Indian cooking as one of the components of good curry powder, strong spice blends and chutney, which all benefit from fenugreek's tang and intensity.

Fenugreek is also used in some African cooking and is one of the many spices in the hot Ethiopian
pepper blend called berbere.

The plant that yields the strange-looking fenugreek seeds is actually a quite common-looking legume, with clover-like leaves and pea-like flowers. It is high in protein and has been cultivated since ancient times for animal fodder as well as for human food and spice. The name fenugreek is actually a variation on the Latin, Foenum graecum, which means Greek hay.

If you would like to taste fenugreek leaves, you can sprout your own for salad or flavoring in stirfry blends. Otherwise, obtaining green fenugreek is difficult since it grows only in Mediterranean and tropical climates. India and Morocco are our major suppliers of fenugreek.

If you want to experiment with fenugreek, you'll have to buy it at the Coop, as Moscow grocery stores don't carry it. If you want to try a couple of tablespoons of fenugreek, you'll pay about 12 cents. Ah, the delights of bulk spice buying.

Roasting fenugreek a bit before adding it to the dish you are cooking can reduce the bitterness and enhance its caramel-like flavor, but don't let it burn. Fenugreek goes well with potatoes, as I found in the following recipe, which calls for roasting several whole spices together before adding the vegetables. The fish curry is a delightful concoction, in which the fenugreek plays well off the nutty coconut flavors.

Spinach with Potatoes

2 bunches spinach, coarsely chopped
4 medium potatoes
1 t. fenugreek seeds
1 t. yellow mustard seeds
1 t. poppy seeds
1 t. cumin seeds
2 T. vegetable oil
salt to taste

Boil the potatoes until just tender; drain and cube. Heat oil in a large heavy-bottom frying pan. Add all the seeds and fry on medium hot until toasted. This will only take a minute or two, depending on how hot the oil is. A lid is needed to keep the mustard seeds from jumping out of the pan. After seeds are toasted, add spinach, potatoes and salt. Reduce heat and sauté until spinach is cooked. Serves two.

Mild Coconut Fish Curry

2 T. canola oil
2 large shallots, sliced
2 garlic cloves, chopped
1/2 T. mustard seeds
3/4 pound firm white fish, skinned and cut in 1" pieces
flour for dusting fish
1/2 t. fenugreek
1" piece of cinnamon stick
1/2 t. turmeric
3/4 c. coconut milk
1/4 c. water
3 T. grated coconut
salt

Sauté shallots, garlic, mustard seeds and fenugreek in oil for 12 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon. Dust the fish with flour and briefly brown in hot oil. Return shallot mixture to pan and add turmeric, cinnamon, coconut milk and water. Simmer covered for 5 minutes until fish is cooked. Stir in coconut, add salt if desired, and serve.