Right about now, pickling season is in full swing on the Palouse. The peaches are already canned, the extra corn is in the freezer, and now crocks of cucumbers and cabbage are starting to ferment in at least a few farm cellars around here.
There was a time when every kitchen produced enough pickles to keep the pantry well-stocked. Pickling was a convenient, reliable way to preserve food, especially fruits and vegetables that weren't available in the winter. Fruits or vegetables were partially fermented and then submerged in an acid solution of salt, water and vinegar, which inhibited the growth of bacteria and mold. While pickles stored in jars were considered "put up," those kept in open crocks and barrels were "put down" in the cellar where the cool darkness aided preservation. Thomas Jefferson must have found them an irresistible summer attraction. "On a hot day in Virginia, I know nothing more comforting than a fine spiced pickle brought up trout-like from the sparkling depths of the aromatic jar below the stairs of Aunt Sally's cellar," he wrote. Jefferson's description of a superior pickle as "fine spiced" reveals the great secret of the best pickles: spices for flavoring. Without spices, vinegar is the predominant pickle flavor as it replaces much of the original fruit or vegetable taste. By Jefferson's time, cooks were pickling with a wide variety of spices made available through world exploration. Mace, cloves, nutmeg, ginger, garlic, mustard, turmeric, horseradish and pepper were used to flavor just about anything the garden and orchard produced: cherries, pears, peaches, asparagus, currants, corn, okra, beans, celery root, cauliflower, mushrooms, parsley, melons, grapes and nasturtium seeds, which were used like capers. All cuts of meat, fowl and fish were also pickled, leading to such recipes as "Pickled Ox-Palates" and "Pickled Muscles." Today, cucumbers are the most popular pickling vegetables, although relishes seemed to be regaining popularity. Our favorite spices now include mustard, which makes the familiar bread-and-butter cucumber slices, and dill, which is used with garlic, bay leaf and red peppers to make the popular kosher-style dill pickle. The Co-op sells a typical pickling spice combination of cinnamon, allspice, bay leaf, black pepper, mustard, cloves and dill for $8.49 a pound. It is a spicy, pungent mix, good for people who like their pickle flavors strong. Other grocery stores in Moscow sell two ounces for between $3 and $5. The Co-op's pickling spice is also made of whole spices, which are best for pickling, as ground spices can cloud the pickling solution and ground cinnamon leaves a grainy coating on pickles. So, it's time to try pickling, and even if you've never done it before, it is easily done without jars, canners, crocks and other paraphernalia. To simplify the pickling process, I leave out the canning step, which seals the pickles in glass jars. Instead, I keep small batches in any convenient container, stored in the refrigerator. Pickles and relish will keep almost indefinitely this way. The following recipes are from the Ball Blue Book Guide to Home Canning and Freezing and simply combine cooked vegetables with a syrup of vinegar, water, sugar and spices. If you find yourself interested in more pickles, and maybe even "putting up" a few pints, you can get the Ball Blue Book at Tri-State, along with all the canning equipment you can imagine. Spicy Pickled Beets and Onions This recipe is a long-time favorite. Add pickled beet slices to romaine lettuce leaves, along with some asiago or blue cheese and balsamic vinegar, for an extra-elegant salad. 4 pounds beets
3 cups thinly sliced onions
2 ½ cups cider vinegar
1 ½ cups water
1 tsp. salt
2 cups sugar
1 tbsp. mustard seed
1 tsp. whole allspice
1 tsp. whole cloves
3 sticks cinnamon, broken To cook beets: Wash and drain beets. Leave 2 inches of stems and the taproots. Cover with boiling water and cook until tender. When cool, slip skins off. Combine remaining ingredients in a large saucepot. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer 5 minutes. Add beets and cook until heated. Store in clean, covered containers in the refrigerator. If beets are large, quarter or slice before adding to syrup. (Note: for safest long-term storage in the refrigerator, wash containers in hot, soapy water just before using.) Garden Pickles 1 pound sweet green peppers cut into strips
12 ounces zucchini, sliced
8 ounces carrots cut into sticks
1 ¼ pounds onions, sliced
4 banana peppers, cut into strips
3 ½ cups sliced celery
8 ounces mushrooms, sliced
1 quart cider vinegar
1 ½ cups water
1 cup sugar
2 tbsp. pickling spice
1 tsp. dried oregano
2 tsp. dried basil
1 tsp. peppercorns
1 clove garlic, minced
1 tsp. salt Prepare vegetables and set aside. Combine water, vinegar, sugar and spices in a large saucepot. Bring to a boil; reduce heat to a simmer. Add vegetables and simmer until just tender. Store in clean, covered containers in the refrigerator. |
