Summer savory–what a great name for this leafy herb, with its bright, pungent flavor reminiscent of dill and a dash of thyme. It's a perfect foil to the sweetness of the new potatoes and fresh green beans we'll soon harvest.
And savory grows so well around here. This year's crop will set seed for the next crop in the stones around your garden. But I'll bet it's not growing in your garden now and I'll wager you haven't used in the stewpot lately. Actually, you've probably never grown it, since local nurseries have given up selling it. "Nobody buys it," they report, and grocery stores only occasionally stock it. Summer savory hasn't always had such a low profile. In another time and civilization, it had a decidedly more useful reputation, and a different name. The Romans called it "satureja," a name which, according to most herbalists, was derived the name for satyrs—those lascivious half men-half goats, who lived in forests filled with the herb. That led to the long-standing belief that summer savory, or Satureja hortensis, was an aphrodisiac. (Another variety of savory, Satureja montana, or winter savory, was believed to dampen the sexual appetite. You may draw your own conclusions as to why summer savory is the enduring favorite.) At that same time, Roman cooks depended on savory for a peppery flavor that combined well with oregano and thyme, which they also used. The Roman palate was fond of strong flavors, including spicy, sweet, and salty, and savory's strong flavor made it popular. Roman recipes that use summer savory include mussels steamed in a broth flavored with leeks, cumin, a sweet grape syrup and wine, and chicken baked with wine, leeks, dill, coriander, pepper and savory. It was also used to flavor vinegar for cooking. Modern use of savory takes advantage of its pungency by using it with beans, both fresh and dry. In German cooking, the herb is called "Bohnenkraut," which translates as 'bean herb,' an appropriate name since German recipes often use it with beans. In France, savory is a traditional ingredient in the mixture known as 'herbes de Provence', which also uses some combination of dried thyme, rosemary, marjoram, oregano, lavender flowers, sage, basil or fennel seed. Generally, savory goes well with cooked vegetable salads, tomato dishes, marinades, and fish, especially trout. I like to think of it as a robust alternative to dill and have enjoyed it in sour cream-based vegetable dips. To add summer savory to your cooking, buy a couple tablespoonsful from the Co-op's bulk spice jar for less than 50 cents. Otherwise, you will pay about $3.50 for a 3/4 oz. jar of summer savory at a traditional grocery storeif they even stock it. Growing your own savory is easily done, if you can find the seed. It will probably be difficult to find locally, but is certainly found in seed catalogues that emphasize herbs. Once you have the seed, sow it directly in a sunny spot for a hardy annual. One local gardener found her crop last year seeded an abundant crop for this year. Like most leafy herbs, fresh savory is better than dried. Use it with vegetables and salads. It is also said to be a good complement for mushrooms. The following recipes take advantage of savory's robust flavor by pairing it with hearty vegetables. The green beans are cooked using the same method restaurants use to produce a bright green, still-crunchy bean for every plate: to time it just right for your table, hold the beans in the refrigerator after they have been boiled and rinsed with cold water. Season and heat just before eating. Green Beans with Summer Savory 2 lb. fresh, young green beans, trimmed
salt
4 tbsp. unsalted butter
2 tbsp. finely chopped fresh summer savory, or 2 tsp. dried savory
fresh ground black pepper Bring a large pot of water to full boil. Add a generous dash of salt and green beans and cook on high heat uncovered for 6-8 minutes, depending on the size and freshness of the beans. They should be tender but still crisp. Drain and rinse with cold water. Drain again and keep cool until you are ready to eat them. For final preparation, melt butter in a saucepan. Add savory and beans. Cook for 1-2 minutes and serve hot, seasoned with pepper, and salt if necessary. Herbed Roasted Potatoes 2 tbsp. olive oil, divided
2 lb. low-starch potatoes (red or yellow skinned), halved or quartered
1/2 tsp. dried summer savory
1/2 tsp. dried thyme
1/2 tsp. dried marjoram
salt and fresh ground pepper Preheat oven to 450° F. Use some of the oil to coat a heavy baking sheet or pan. Combine potatoes, herbs and remaining oil in pan and toss well. Season with salt and pepper. Roast until potatoes are golden brown, stirring frequently, about 40 minutes. To shorten the cooking time, you can parboil the potatoes for 4-6 minutes before roasting. Drain well, add oil and seasoning and roast for about 20-25 minutes. |
