Berries and Grapes for the Palouse
From a lecture by Dr. Danny Barney, Extension Horticulture Specialist and Superintendent of the University of Idaho’s Sandpoint Research & Extension Center.

In last month’s column, I mentioned the class I took in April on grapes and berries for our area. I wanted to share more of that lecture this month.
The most important consideration for growing small fruits on the Palouse is to match the crop to the site, rather than the other way around. Success will be achieved if you select crops that are adapted to your growing conditions.
Raspberries are the best-adapted berry to this area and arguably the most popular. They require good drainage and if this is a problem on your site then build raised beds. In addition to improving drainage, the soil in raised beds warms up earlier in the season than the surrounding soil and dries out 2-3 weeks earlier, providing you with a longer growing season. Raspberries want full sun and good air movement. It is better for them to be a little too dry rather than too wet.

The best soil for raspberries is 1/3 loam, 1/3 sand and 1/3 compost. It takes 3 years for plants to mature. Raspberries do best when they are replaced after 8-10 years. Start a new bed in another location 3 years before and you won’t have to do without this berry for even a season. When pruning, keep in mind that the lower you prune them the lower the yield and smaller the fruit size you will harvest. It is better to bend over the tops and fasten to a lower wire. Specific instructions for pruning can be found at the U of I Sandpoint Research & Extension Center website listed at the end of this column. Buy certified berry bushes from a well-known nursery. This will guarantee that the berries are disease free.
Strawberries are also well adapted to our area. They also prefer raised beds, as they are susceptible to root rot. Rows should only be 12” wide, as berries only grow on the outside of the plants. They grow well in containers on the patio and are a good choice for small gardens. Strawberries thrive in full sun, but do not tolerate drought. They are of three types: June-bearing, everbearing and dayneutral.

Strawberries should be replanted every 3-4 years in a new bed. The first year cut off all blossoms to force the plant’s energy into the roots instead of into berry production. You will find rankings of varieties and more cultural information on the website.
Red, white and black currants are adapted to our area. They do well in light to moderate shade and are attractive ornamentals, especially the reds. The fruit is used for jellies, syrups and juices and as herbal medicines and teas.

Grapes need more heat than the Palouse usually provides, but if you can find a south facing wall or protected area you may have success. Select one of the most cold-hardy varieties, Canadice is the best seedless in Dr. Barney’s opinion.
Other fruits for the Palouse are blackberries, gooseberries, jostaberries, blueberries, lingonberries, huckleberries, saskatoons and kiwifruit.

Other websites with more information on small fruits are:
http://www.ag.uidaho.edu/sandpoint
http://berrygrape.oregonstate.edu/

In the June Garden:
Prune or deadhead lilacs no more than 2 weeks after bloom has ended;
Plant seedlings of summer blooming flowers;
Plant biennial plants from plant sales: hollyhock, foxglove and sweet William. Biennials grow leaves the first year and flower the next;
Divide iris any time after bloom. Cut segments so each has a fan of leaves;
Plant warm season plants: squash, melons, tomatoes, and beans;
Succession plant salad vegetables (lettuce, radish) every 2 weeks for a continual supply;
Put up hummingbird feeders and change the nectar frequently, better yet, plant hummingbird friendly plants;
Pick flowers and give them to your friends and neighbors.

Errata: the Potlatch Growers Group was started by local Potlatch and Princeton community members in January 2006 who were, and are, passionate about growing and supporting local food systems in the rural community. Contrary to what I stated in April, there were no master gardeners involved in starting the Group.

The June seminar from the Growers is on season extenders: hoop houses, row covers, etc. For information email This email address is being protected from spam bots, you need Javascript enabled to view it or call (208) 875-0644.

Holly Barnes took time out from a major (and messy) garden remodel to write this article. She and her husband, ‘the sailing guy,’ have torn up part of the backyard lawn and existing cement slab and are replacing it with lavender plants, a new patio, and some blueberry plants in a raised bed.